After hiking with Ranger Aaron earlier in the day on National Trails Day, 2013, I decided to take his advice and walk out to the Great Stone Door. The drive from the Greeter Falls parking area to the Stone Door parking area took less than fifteen minutes. The Stone Door entrance to Savage Gulf is also located just east of TN 56 north of Altamont in the community of Beersheba Springs. One of two ranger stations for Savage Gulf is located here along with a primitive campground and more hiking trails. One unexpected amenity at this location is restrooms with running water. Every visitor at this site is required to register, even day hikers.
After signing in, I decided to start with the loop hike to Laurel Falls. Going clockwise from the registration desk, this short 1/3 mile trail gradually descends through the forest and down to Laurel Creek at the top of the falls before arriving at a wooden overlook of the falls and a series of stairs leading back to the ranger station. Upstream of the falls, a spur trail leads to the site of a former mill, but I chose to skip the side trip. At the falls, the creek free falls about 25 feet onto a jumble of rocks that were formerly part of the lip of the falls.
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| Paved trail from the parking lot to the restrooms and ranger station |
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| Registration is required for all visitors |
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| The loop trail is well maintained |
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| Just beyond the falls, the trail skirts the edge of the cliff |
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| Turning back provides an open view of the falls |
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| Laurel Falls from the overlook |
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| Closeup view of the falls |
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| Looking back at the viewing platform |
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| Looking up toward the ranger station |
After arriving back at the registration kiosk, I began walking the paved trail toward the Great Stone Door. This trail is very level with all wet areas crossed by way of boardwalk-style bridges. The trail is paved for about ¼ mile to the Laurel Gulf Overlook. This makes it accessible even to people with mobility issues. Beyond the overlook the trail is packed dirt and rock. After walking another 0.7 mile, signs point to two additional overlooks and the Great Stone Door. The overlooks are not fenced and are at the top of a bluff that is about 100 feet high, so extreme caution is advised. As this is a premier rock climbing wall, signs are posted reminding visitors not to throw or drop rocks over the edge as they may hit climbers. The views can be so mesmerizing that it is easy to lose track of time. From the second overlook, continue on along the trail another few yards to a narrow slot in the bluff with a twisted tree and numerous stone steps down to the base of the bluff. According to the state website, this slot is about 10 feet wide and 100 feet deep. When seen from the base of the bluff, it seems like a stone door has been opened revealing the staircase to the top. At the base of the bluff, the trail traverses a boulder field that requires careful attention to the trail blazes. After hearing distant thunder, I decided that I had hiked far enough for the day and returned to the top of the plateau. I paused at both overlooks to notice how the fog had rolled in along Big Creek creating a feeling of being above the clouds. Although the rain started falling just after I left the overlook, the forest canopy is so dense that I did not need my rain jacket until I was within sight of the ranger station.
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| The initial trail to Great Stone Door is paved and has sturdy wooden bridges |
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| Laurel Gulf Overlook is just ahead |
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| The view from Laurel Gulf Overlook |
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| The pavement ends at the overlook |
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| Bridges span every branch and drainage area |
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| This gnarled remnant of a tree reminded me of the magic brooms in Disney's Fantasia |
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| Some sections of the trail are fairly sandy |
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| Other sections of the trail expose small roots |
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| Signs, signs, everywhere signs! |
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| This sinkhole has been fenced off |
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| Approaching the left overlook... |
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| ...requires crossing a small gap in the rock |
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| Big Creek Gulf |
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| A rock climber's paradise |
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| Big Creek Gulf looking downstream |
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| A sturdy bridge crosses a wider gap to access the second overlook |
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| A twisted tree grows out of the Great Stone Door |
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| Great Stone Door from the top |
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| Great Stone Door from the middle |
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| Additional stairs take the trail on down the hillside |
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| Huge rocks are strewn at ridiculous angles |
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| Boulders seem to be growing out of the ground |
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| Great Stone Door from the bottom |
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| Clouds roll in over Big Creek |
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| Clouds above and below |
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| Thickening fog over Big Creek |
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| Blue skies make an appearance over Big Creek Gulf |
The total hike was less than 1.5 miles. Even though it was a Saturday in June, there were very few people on the trails. I didn't meet anyone on the Laurel Falls Loop and met less than a dozen people on the Stone Door trail.
The natural area website is http://www.tn.gov/environment/na/natareas/savage/.
The state park website is http://www.tn.gov/environment/parks/SouthCumberland/.